Monthly Archives: February 2009

Every day, forever.

antarctica travel tips 74

When I set off for the South Pole, my daughter Magdalena could not yet talk. When I returned, she asked me lots of questions: “What did you find down there?” “Infinity.” “What’s infinity like?” “White, peaceful, still.” “So is that like Heaven? Did you look for Heaven in Antarctica?” “No, I wasn’t looking for anything. But I discovered white infinity there.” –R. Messner, Antarctic mountaineer They tell you that Antarctica ... Read More »

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Farewell, my dear.

antarctica travel tips 42

Leaving Antarctica doesn’t happen in any obvious way. It is not that you see icebergs and snow one minute, and green earth the next. No; the Continent trickles away bit by bit. By the time you realize what is really going on it is far, far too late to catch one more glimpse of her ethereal beauty. It must have happened in those moments when I was floating like an ... Read More »

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Back to the Twilight Zone

antarctica travel tips 72

Leaving Half Moon Island to prepare for our trip back to civilization had been a less traumatic experience than expected. Perhaps the gorgeous weather and stunning scenery had helped ease the pain, but I think a lot of it had to do with the fact that I was leaving in peace, having gained the knowledge and understanding of Antarctica that I had come to seek. Back onboard, seasick bags popped ... Read More »

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Final Landing: Half Moon Bay

antarctica travel tips 89

Chinstrap Jr. and her furry-butted brother Pre-mating ritual Penguins go planking (looks mightily comfortable) Pebble hunting? “You always forget to put the toilet seat back down!” As Antarctic landings go, Half Moon Island is just about every traveller’s wild fantasy– Chinstrap penguins abound the very minute you land, Weddell seals and fur seals napping on the beach like giant sausages on rocks, beautiful snow capped mountains all around. What isn’t ... Read More »

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